Tuesday 23 February 2010

Milford Sound and non performing seals


An unexpected day today, we always planned to drive to Milford Sound as the road is reputed to be spectacular. So after a substantial cooked breakfast we set off early to be in front of the tour buses. The road journey was indeed spectacular, a gradual climb through mountain pastures to a tunnel that was only completed in 1953 having been started in 1935. The tunnel is very crude and completely unlit so it is single file throughout. We then dropped to Milford Sound over a steep winding road between sheer rock faces.
On first appearance Milford is disappointing, it is rather like a pleasure boat version of Dover Harboar, but undeterred we booked trip. Once on the Sound (it is really a fjord, there that Geography degree was not wasted), the scenery is awesome. Sheer rock walls drop down into the sound, punctuated by huge waterfalls. At one point a perfect hanging valley enters the Sound. We stayed on the top of the boat throughout the 2 hour cruise despite the very high winds that drove everybody except another stoic English couple downstairs. Having said that it was good and sunny so that we got a considerable tan.
We also had much amusement as there was the usual trip to the seal colony, by now I wnat to see those seals bouncing coloured balls on their noses, but instead as usual they just lay there, wallowing in the sun, really you cannot get the performers now a days.
The character of the sound was very different from Doubtful which was more brooding and atmospheric. This was more a fjord with light and shade, the magnificence being in the sheer scale of the rocks, the waterfalls and the sea. Interestingly it was not discovered until 1820 as Cook sailed straight by twice as the entrance is so disguised.
The drive back to Te Anau (120 kms) was even better, probably due to the perspective, there were frequent photo stops and then finally are first subsistance of the day at 4pm. (there are no facilities whatsoever on the drive). So then onto Queenstown where we arrived at about 6.30. Time for a quick run along the lake observing the world’s only working coal fired steamer which we are travelling on tomorrow. Then a surprisingly good meal in the restaurant with lovely views of the lake, sampling Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir from Otago which was delicious and a Riesling from Marlborough Sounds. And so to bed after a brilliant but tiring day.

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